Tips For A Better Headshot

Your Expression

As I mentioned earlier… that unflinching gaze. Easier said than done huh? I saw some footage of Richard Avedon working with a very young Cindy Crawford. In his direction to Crawford, Avedon said, “Have a thought.” I find this very helpful. “Having a thought” Avedon explained, is giving your face something to think about. Giving your face a reason for you expression. There’s a difference between putting on a smile, and having a smile. Look at yourself in the mirror and practice! Some people don’t have to think about it. For most of us…It’s harder than you think. So seriously. Look in the mirror, meet your own gaze, a see if you can manage an expression that is warm, confident, and approachable.

The closed mouth smile is a great look. The mistake most people make is pursing their lips with a closed mouth smile. You see the skin dimple around the mouth along with marionette lines being accentuated due to the compression. It comes off like a smirk. A little cheeky. Works for some. For most it’s a smile that hides your teeth. The teeth want to come out. So if you want a closed mouth smile: practice. Most people only have one or the other. A closed mouth, or an open mouth with teeth smile. Either way, “have a thought” but have a subtle thought. Mona Lisa but more obvious. As if a fond remembrance is occurring and there is a quiet satisfaction. Or perhaps you’re conveying subtle approval to a friend. The look one might have watching their grade school child perform in a play.

Do some work in the mirror “having a thought” and see what you can come up with.

Should I Get Professional Make-Up?

First let me say: Most women do not get make-up. Most women do their own make-up. You may not need professional make-up.

I do have Make-Up Artists (MUA) I can recommend. They are experienced in applying make-up for film, broadcast, as well as outings.

The times when an MUA doesn’t work is for women who hardly ever much make-up at all. They feel they need make-up and need a professional to do the make-up since they never do make-up. Of course they’re not used to make-up so it feels awkward. They’re not use to seeing themselves that way, so they feel they look awkward. Not uncommon to have to reshoot their headshots.

For men I don’t recommend it. If you you are a woman who never wears foundation, often your everyday make-up will work just fine. Since I give you all the takes from an acting session, it can improve your yield to have professional make-up. If you’re at a point in your life where aging skin bothers you, then I say it’s worth it. Some women who are in the habit of using professional make-up simply book an MUA (Make-Up Artist) because it’s relaxing.

I do not recommend stopping by the MAC or Sephora counter on the way to me. My experience is that it’s inconsistent and tends to be heavy handed. If you use one of the folks I recommend you’re using experienced MUAs who are often on the set of movie productions. It may feel heavy handed but it won’t look that way.

If you are coming to me at my home studio I can recommend professional hair and make-up folks that will meet you at my home. I do not recommend you bring your own. They may be as good as or better than my recommendations for all I know. But I don’t know their work. I know the work of the folks I recommend. They work on movie sets and television studios. I do not mark up their services. You pay them directly. All I get in return is a well prepped subject.

I don’t think men benefit greatly from professional hair and make-up. Larger societal questions and implications aside, it’s how it is. There is a visual currency and we’re not use to seeing men with make-up in most situations. Does an experienced MUA make a man look better? Yes. But in my opinion it’s not as significant as with women.

Should I Wear A Jacket?

I think everyone looks better in a jacket. A nice jacket looks great and is slimming. Most of us are carrying excess pounds. A well tailored jacket shaves pounds off.

There are two industries where jackets seem non-negotiable. Lawyers and Finance. If you’re going to ask to be trusted with someone’s liberty or their life’s savings, people want to see that you can afford a nice suit! Just make sure of the fit.

People will say, “Well I never wear a jacket.” My response is, "Think about the picture and what will make the best headshot.” If you don’t wear a jacket make sure your shirt looks great without a jacket.

Overshirts As A Jacket Alternative

Overshirts are a great alternative to a traditional jacket. They are more affordable then jackets. They still provide those vertical lines that give can thin your body. They provide texture and dimension. Fit isn’t nearly as critical yet you should still do your best to have them fit well. Tech industry people would do well to wear an overshirt.

Men’s Ties

A lost art! I’ll give it the ol’ college try for you. I can usually tie a convincing single or double Windsor in a pinch. BUT! Don’t bunch your tie up and bring it to the session in your pocket. Spend some money on a tie that’s going to have some great fabric. It’ll take a knot better. Bring some choices. Go ahead and buy a new tie or borrow one if you need to. You’ll be glad you did!

No Tie

If you’re not going to wear a tie, make sure your shirt collar has enough structure to stand up on it’s own.

Women’s Jackets

Women seem to need much less convincing. One caveat here. A sweater is not a jacket. In my opinion you want a fabric with some structure that hangs the clothing on your frame. A well fitted jacket that hangs (versus clinging and form fitting) will shave weight off visually.

Jewelry

Jewelry is highly personal and cultural. I am reminded of a woman, easily in her late 70’s, who introduced herself as “Ellen from Yonkers”. That classic old school New York City accent. Ellen greatly over accessorized. Huge multi-rowed large necklace made up of alternating round and square pieces of wood, large earrings, oversized eyeglasses. This all made up her persona. I didn’t dare try to talk her out of it. A younger woman I might have. Here’s the thing, a headshot is not a party. People don’t have the chance to get to know you. In many ways it might be the most unfair 1/2000th second of your life. It will be a first impression for many. In my opinion you do not want to distract from your expression. Simple adornments are best. Don’t distract someone’s eye with multiple layers of necklaces, bracelets, watches, rings, and earrings. Those are all well and good and should be featured in your daily wardrobe. Come headshot day, simplify. Wrist wear usually isn’t an issue unless we’re doing “table shots” or waist-up shots.

Having said that, if you’re “Ellen from Yonkers”… by all means, be yourself.

False Eyelashes

False eyelashes can add drama to your look, but they can have a drawback. Some eyelashes block the “catchlight” in the subject’s eyes, making the eyes look lifeless. Catchlights are the “specular” highlight, the reflection of light in your eyes. 

If you plan to apply lashes for your headshot session, do a test first. If you have lights over the bathroom mirror, stand at a reasonable distance from the mirror with your eyelashes on and see if you can see the reflection of those lights in your eyes. If your eyes are dark, it’s problematic. Your eye color will not show up, and your eyes will seem dead. 

The artists I use for makeup do a great job on eyelashes. They are natural and do not block the catchlight from the subject’s eyes. If I have to, I can add eyelashes in Photoshop. I’d rather do that than try and bring life to an eyeball that has been shaded by an eyelash that is unnaturally long.

Colored Contact Lenses

I’m not a fan of colored contact lenses that replace your natural iris. I’ve never seen colored contact lenses that I thought looked better than a naturally colored eye iris. It looks fake on at least two accounts. It doesn’t go with your natural appearance and the lenses have too much detail and look fake in and of themselves. As a portrait photographer, specifically a professional headshot photographer, eyes hold an endless fascination for me. I give special care to them to make sure the viewer’s attention is encouraged to meet the gaze of the subject. When I see colored contact lenses with the embedded detail, I can’t help but think of low budget sci-fi. Nothing looks better than what God gave you! Trust me, your eyes are beautiful! No need to cover up the iris God gave you.